Oceania: Day 29: 8-1-94: Katherine Gorge

Today we took a bus ride out to downtown Katherine. Unfortunately, it was a state holiday (Picnic Day), and the whole frickin' town was shut down (save one "Woolies" [Woolworths]).

Then it was off to Katherine Gorge. We took a four hour boat ride down the Katherine River, exploring gorges 1-3. The first gorge was rather unimpressive -- modest tree-lined cliffs rose up gradually on each side of the river.

Since it was dry season, the water level in the Katherine River was very low. Hence, we had to dock boat #1 and walk a few hundred meters to boat #2. Along the way, we got our first look at authentic Aboriginal cave art (or more precisely, cliff art) which dated back some 10,000 years.

We hopped in the second boat and visited a second gorge. This one was more in line with my expectations: a narrow portion of the Katherine river was flanked on either side by vertical granite cliffs towering high above us. I snapped a few shots and then laid back and enjoyed the ride.

------------------------------Katherine Gorge------------------------------


After a bit, we once again stopped, got out of the boat and walked a ways, ultimately boarding a third vessel. The third gorge was much the same as the second, and I didn't bother taking a photo. We stopped around noon for afternoon "tea" (juice and fruitcake) and a quick swim. Those of us who were of hardy stock swam across the (freshwater) crocodile-infested waters to the escarpment on the other side, where we did a bit of cliff diving (Yours Truly did a flip).

After some relaxing sun bathing (a real treat after the cold temperatures experienced thus far on our tour -- I'm told it will be warm from hereon out, all the way up to Darwin), we packed up our things and reversed the 3-boat journey back to the launching point.

We returned to the hotel, where we had just enough time to change before heading out again -- this time for our croc-spotting cruise. As before, we boarded a vessel on the Katherine River. Setting out at dusk, we cruised down the river towards our campsite. Halfway there, a cloak of darkness began to cover the sky. Venus became visible, then Jupiter . . . soon a whole array of stars poked holes in Night's shroud.

Meanwhile, the river and bordering jungle were undergoing their own transformation, becoming a seething mass of gurgles and silhouettes. Soon the birds and nocturnal rain forest denizens started squawking their nightly dirge, providing an appropriately eerie score for our nighttime adventure. One of the guides shone a brilliant spotlight on the water, illuminating the surface and creating a reflective parallel universe. All the eldritch images doubled, and we suddenly found ourselves floating in midair through a shadowy canyon. The scene was so captivating that I failed to make a cynical comment about the serious dearth of sharp-toothed reptiles.

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