Oceania: Day 13: 7-16-94: Paradise By Any Other Name . . .

This morning John and I decided to set off for one of the outlying islands. There were many beautiful islands to choose from, but John and I eventually decided on Paradise Island because it was the cheapest to visit ($18 round trip), and we were both concerned with conserving our diminishing resources. A small motor boat met us at Lautoka Wharf, where we were informed by the boat pilot ("Captain Kelly") that the island had recently undergone a change in ownership . . . and names -- it had been rechristened Bakana Island (So much for my intended witty request for "two tickets to Paradise"!). Kelly went on to say that, in an attempt to encourage more business, the new management was now charging only $1 to travel to the island. John and I smiled at our good fortune -- we had made what is known as "a good call".




-----------------------------The $1 Island Getaway----------------------------


Bakana Island was only about a 10-minute boat ride from the mainland, but it was like entering a new world. We were greeted at the beachfront by over a dozen island employees, a literal welcoming committee, who sang an upbeat Fijian song, accompanied by a pair of guitars. The exceedingly friendly, smiling staff (including Eta, Sula and Kassa) helped us out of the boat and invited us to explore the island. Just two minutes walking around Bakana told me all I needed to know -- the name of the island may have changed, but it was Paradise nonetheless. It was sunny, sandy and secluded -- a tropical retreat that instantly felt like "My Own Private Fiji." Island amenities included an outdoor bar/restaurant, several comfortable bure accommodations for overnight guests, two swimming pools (one for children) and a plethora of water-sports gear. The swaying palm trees were a nice added touch.



----------Welcome To Paradise (er . . . I mean, Bakana)-------------


John and I lazed around on sun chairs for a while and then did a bit of snorkeling (I didn't see as many fish as I'd expected, but I did collect a few interesting shells and a beautiful blue starfish -- which I didn't dry out properly and eventually had to toss due to the smell). When John and I returned to our lounges, we met two bikini-clad girls from California (absolute knockouts -- Blonde Bombshell types), who turned out to be sisters. Their names were Dawn and Eve (I resisted the urge to fire off some easy jokes). My heart sank when they informed us they were off to the mainland for the day, but they said they were lodging on Bakana and hoped to see us when they returned in the evening (they hoped?!). Around the same time, John and I also met Julie, a topless, attractive, friendly (did I mention topless?) college student from Quebec, Canada, who informed us that she, too, was sleeping on the island.


It was at about this time that John and I decided to stay overnight.


Fortunately, there was no more room in the island dorms (relatively inexpensive group lodgings set aside for backpackers like us). I say "fortunately," because the kind Aussie owners (Robert and Tracy) offered John and I a deluxe twin bure for the same price ($37 apiece, which included breakfast, dinner and free water-sport equipment rental -- this was a great deal, considering that it was originally going to cost $18 just to visit the island). The day just kept getting better!




--------------------------------Bure, Sweet Bure!------------------------------


After booking our accommodations, John and I joined Julie (who had donned a skimpy top, strained almost to the breaking point) for some kayaking. We each grabbed a kayak and paddled ourselves halfway around the island, before heading back for a quick dip in the pool and more sunbathing.

At 4:00, John and I decide to go back to Lautoka to pick up our backpacks from the Lautoka Hotel and buy some film and water. I spent the brief boat ride conversing with "Captain Kelly". What a completely pleasant, down-to-Earth fellow he is! Just like most of the Fijians I've met, Kelly is friendly, courteous and helpful -- not to mention genuinely concerned with my welfare (despite my protestations, he insisted upon assisting me on and off the boat).

When we arrived back at the island, John and I joined Julie for some libation at the beachfront bar. After the friendly, flamboyant barkeep served our drinks, the three of us delved into a serious conversation about morals, religion, sex and family. Within the hour, the "dorm group" (including Dawn and Eve) returned from the mainland, and the lot of us were invited to join the bar musicians for a pre-dinner Fijian "jam session." We all received various percussion instruments, and kept the beat as best we could. (No doubt I was doubly impressive, alternately playing a mean tambourine and a rice-filled mayonnaise jar). It wasn't long before the (gulp) kava bowl was carted out, and again, I found myself in the position of having to accept the offering. Surprisingly (perhaps because I knew what to expect this time), I didn't find the kava to be quite as repulsive as during my first experience -- they say it's an acquired taste -- though it was still nothing to write home about. After a few bowls of kava, I went into a hypnotic trance of sorts, swaying to the soothing, rhythmic sounds of the band as my face was caressed by the warm, Fijian breezes. Truly, I had never felt so relaxed in my entire life.

----------------Jamming Around The Kava Bowl------------------------

Dinner was superb! It was, by far, the finest meal I've had since leaving home. (When it was served, I couldn't believe it was all included in the $37 overnight fee.) Herewith, the menu:


Appetizer: Fish in Filo Dough

Soup: Leek & Potato

Salad: Mixed Greens

Entree: Codfish (lightly fried in butter & garlic)

with Mashed Potatoes and Veggies

Dessert: Fried Banana with Vanilla Ice Cream


As I write this entry three days later, I'm still savoring that meal!


During dinner, I got to meet Emil from New Zealand and Tom from England. Emil had just turned 15, but he seemed much older -- he was certainly a lot more serious than your average teenager. He was currently touring the Fijian Islands on board his family friend's $500,000 sailing vessel (he had come all the way from New Zealand -- a ten day trip on the open seas). Emil, despite his tender years, knew more about sailing than anyone I'd ever met. His goal was to buy his own ship someday and sail around the world. Emil already had his open-water sailing certificate, but he couldn't advance any further yet because of his age. He was truly fascinating to talk to, but I found it odd that he failed to smile even once during our conversation -- he just didn't seem that happy, even when discussing such an idyllic adventure (I have a feeling he was rushed into adulthood, though perhaps he was just naturally intense). Tom, on the other hand, knew nothing of sailing, but he was a very cheery bloke.

After Dinner, Emil and T.J. (the wealthy family friend who owned the ship) invited a bunch of us to visit the vessel. T.J., John, a Bakana staff member and I squeezed into a tiny raft with an outboard motor and scooted out to where it was anchored (it was a wet and precarious ride, but we thankfully made it without flipping). While T.J. went back to the island to pick up the next batch of guests, Emil gave John and I a tour. The boat was luxurious -- a true yacht: it had everything from automatic pilot to a complete kitchen (including a dishwasher) and dining room. Finally, everyone arrived. As music played from built-in speakers scattered throughout the ship, the lot of us sat down with beers and talked about the world (with representatives from England, Canada, Holland, New Zealand, Germany, Fiji and America, our group discussion had the look of a UN conference).

Soon it was time to zip back to the island. John and I retired to our bure. We were thrilled with its level of comfort, cleanliness and beauty (though, being used to cockroaches, stained linen and cold showers, we were admittedly not that hard to impress). It had been a pleasant, but long day. I carefully set aside the fresh flowers I found on my pillow and went to sleep.









1 comment:

Sue said...

hehehe. You do seem to find the ladies again, huh? hahaha, topless or barely dressed, I'm sure they really were lovely.